Women’s more casual garments emerged in the late seventeenth century.
The bodice itself was completely rigid and created a flat chest with an exaggeratedly low waistline ending in an extreme point at the center front of the skirt. The short sleeves of the bodice were intended to display the chemise sleeve underneath, and were edged in lace and tied to the arm with ribbon.
The bodice was generally constructed with an oval neckline which fell over the shoulders and dipped low in the front, with voluminous short sleeves cut wide and gathered low into the armscye, as can be seen in the paintings of Gerard Ter Borch (Fig. First, a bodice stiffened with whalebone, then, an over-gown attached at the waist seam and open in the center front, and finally, a petticoat, left visible and fabricated like a simple skirt. Women’s most formal fashion of the period consisted of three outer components (Waugh, 30). The reestablishment of the British monarchy coincided with stricter adherence to court fashions (Boucher, 273). Claire.įorever Amber takes place in England between 16, during the reign of Charles II. For this paper, I will analyze the costumes of Forever Amber designed by René Hubert, focusing on the wardrobe for the female lead, Amber St. Over $90,000 of the budget went to Amber’s wardrobe alone. The men’s and women’s wardrobes totaled $255,000, and Twentieth Century Fox spent $40,000 on wigs (Nugent, 1946). The film also demonstrated the allure of fashion to draw an audience to the theatre through its expensive and extravagant costumes. One group of Catholic veterans’ protest to prevent the public from watching the film backfired, and instead the theatre was packed with “standing room only” (“New Protest on ‘Forever Amber’,” 1947). The film’s success was perhaps due in part to the levels of protest against its racy and sexual themes, both by the Production Code Administration and the Catholic Legion of Decency (Schatz, 322). Revenue grossed $5,000,000 that year and it ranked among the most successful films of 1947 (Schatz, 467).
Opening weekend broke box office records in the United States. In the end, Forever Amber did not disappoint. Production stalling, recasting, and reshooting increased pressure on a massive budget to create a blockbuster. However, thirty-nine days into filming, rising star Linda Darnell was brought in to replace the relatively unknown Cummings and Otto Preminger took over for Stahl as director. Stahl directing and Peggy Cummins playing the title character, Amber St. Originally, the film went into production with John M. By December, Twentieth Century Fox studios purchased the screen rights to produce the film (“Of Local Origin,” 1944). Kathleen Winsor published Forever Amber, the 972-page romance novel in October of 1944.
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